How to spot a fake luxury watch before you buy

Counterfeit watches have become very convincing. The best fakes now copy the weight, the finishing and even the look of the movement. That makes the checks you do before you buy more important than ever. Start with the seller, then the paperwork, then the watch.

Start with the seller

The safest place to buy a new watch is an authorised dealer. For pre-owned, choose an established dealer with a physical shop, a written authenticity guarantee and a clear returns policy.

• If the price is too good to be true, it is. Genuine luxury watches hold their value, so a big discount is a warning sign.
• Check their history. Look for independent reviews and how long the business has been trading.
• Be wary of pressure. A seller who wants a quick decision or payment by bank transfer to a personal account is a red flag.
• Pay in a way that protects you. When buying from a business, paying by credit card can give you extra protection under Section 75 of the Consumer Credit Act.

Check the paperwork

Boxes and papers add value, but they can be faked too.

• The serial number on the papers should match the serial on the watch.
• Ask whether the watch has been serviced, and see the service record.
• Check the serial number with The Watch Register, which records watches reported lost or stolen.

Look closely at the watch

Use a loupe, or the zoom on your phone camera, and compare with photographs from the brand's own website.

• Printing. Dial text should be crisp and evenly spaced. Fuzzy edges, uneven fonts or misaligned markers are warning signs.
• The date magnifier. On models with a magnifier over the date, the date should fill most of the lens. A weak magnification is a common giveaway.
• The seconds hand. A mechanical watch's seconds hand sweeps in small steps. One that ticks once a second suggests a quartz movement, which is a warning sign on a model that should be mechanical.
• The caseback. Check whether the reference should have a solid or a display caseback. A display back on a model that should be solid is a red flag.
• Engravings and finishing. Engraving on the clasp, the inner ring around the dial and the caseback should be sharp and precise. Polished and brushed surfaces should meet in clean lines.
• The crown and bezel. The crown should wind smoothly, and a rotating bezel should click precisely with no play.
• Weight. Gold and platinum watches feel noticeably heavy. Lightness is a warning sign.

The only certain check

Because the best fakes pass most visual checks, the only reliable test is to open the case. Ask a qualified independent watchmaker or the brand's service centre to inspect the movement before you pay, or as a condition of the sale. A reputable seller will agree.

Once it is yours

When you have bought the right watch, keep it that way. Read how to protect a luxury watch and how to insure it, or enquire about protection film for your new watch.